Scale up pattern pieces and cut out from your chosen fabric. Cut 2 of the roll top pocket fronts and backs, 1 of everything else. When you cut webbing, seal the ends by briefly heating with a flame to stop it from fraying. All seams are 10mm except where stated.

Shoulder strap

{short description of image} 1. Cut 2 x 150mm lengths of 25mm wide webbing, and use these to sew 2 D-rings onto the frame. This must be done securely, as all the weight of the bag will be taken on these loops.

2. Determine the length of strap you require: attach the dog lead clips to the remaining 2 D-rings. Pin one of these to the end of a length of 25mm wide webbing, with a 30mm overlap. Clip this onto one of the D-rings on the frame and loosely thread the other end through the other D-ring and clip. Attach this to the second D-ring on the frame and find the most comfortable length for your strap. I use my strap to support the bag slung over my back, not just on my shoulder, so I need to allow enough room to get the strap over my head with a fully laden bag attached. Remember to allow a bit of slack for the padding and 30mm at each end to attach to the D-rings. I use 830mm for my strap length. Do not sew the D-rings on yet.

{short description of image} 3. Stab-stitch the padding to the middle of the strap to hold it in place - use large stitches, and put the strap on top of the padding, curving the whole thing as it would be on your shoulder.
{short description of image} 4. Sew the strap cover into a tube, and thread over the padding and strap. This is a tight fit, so is a bit tricky. I like to position the seam underneath.

5. Fold the ends of the strap cover in around the webbing strap, and sew into place - keep the padded bit curved when you do this.

6. Sew the D-rings and clips onto each end with a 30mm overlap.

Of course, this is one way of doing it - I have been toying with making the strap more like a rucksack strap, by sewing the webbing to the strap cover (allowing for the curve) with a series of bands of zigzag stitches across the webbing, then folding and sewing into a tube and pushing the padding in. Let me know if you have any better ideas - the main problem I have with the above method is that the strap creaks in use - which is not a problem, but it annoys me!


If you're not adding pockets, leave out points 2-4.

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1. Bind the edges shown in red on the outer back pattern piece with lycra binding.

2. Fold the base of all 3 pockets along the dotted lines and sew together.

{short description of image} 3. Middle pocket : Turn in and stitch a 15mm hem across the top of the pocket. Sew the hook part of the100mm length of 20mm wide velcro centrally to the top of the pocket, facing outwards. Stitch creases to make folds as shown: . Sew down approx. 40mm from the top. Turn in and stitch a 20mm hem round the sides and bottom of the middle pocket.
{short description of image} Make the top flap: sew the corresponding fluffy velcro in position: Cut 50mm of 25mm wide webbing, fold it and sew in position as shown to make a pull tab. Sew the flap right sides together into a tube, and sew the side and across one end. Turn right side out, and fold in the open end.
{short description of image} Top stitch the ends and along the seam side.
{short description of image} Sew into position: pin the pocket onto the outer back in the position shown below, and sew through the double thickness of material close to the edge of the fold.Sew the top flap in position so the velcro closures match up. Just sew across the top of the flap so that it can be pulled right up to allow access to the pocket.
{short description of image} 4. Roll top pockets : Sew the back flap to the front piece with a 20mm hem at the sides, right sides together. Turn in and sew a 20 mm hem round the top. Cut 2 pieces of 20mm wide webbing 100mm long for each pocket. Pass through the 20mm side release buckles, fold in half, and sew into place. Fold the pocket flat to find where to sew the buckles onto the pocket top. The webbing should overlap the pocket by approx. 25mm, and should look similar to the drawing of the bag top below.
{short description of image} Turn in and sew a 20mm hem round the sides and bottom of the pocket. Pin and sew into place on the outer back as above, sew twice across the pocket base for strength. It is easier to sew the base of the back flap in place from inside the pocket. The pockets close by folding and rolling 2-3 times, and locking the side release buckles into each other.Roll top back pocket
{short description of image} 5. Sew hook velcro to the 50mm webbing straps as shown and attach to outer back where indicated on the outer back pattern piece. There is a 10mm overlap between the webbing and the outer back. The webbing should hang down from the outer back, and the velcro should be on the inside, so that it can secure the bag to the frame by attaching to the fluffy velcro on the base.

6. Sew fluffy 50mm wide velcro to the outside of the base where shown on the pattern.

{short description of image} 7. Sew top of outer back to inner back along sewing line (right side to right side), with the outer back up. The outer back is slightly larger than the inner back to allow for the frame to be inserted. Let the edges overlap - do not match them up yet. Double sew these seams as the weight of the bag will hang from here.

8. Fold outer back down, and sew sides of outer and inner backs matching edges flat and leaving 15mm at the base to allow for the frame to be fitted into the pocket.

{short description of image} 9. Sew the two 25 x 300mm webbing straps to the front as shown on the pattern piece. Add a reflective strip if wanted.

10. Seal all exposed seams with liquid seam sealant, and leave to dry.

11. Sew front to inner/outer back unit along side seams (right sides together).

12. Turn in 30 mm hem around top, and stitch in place. Either leave an opening along the back to insert the stiffener, or sew on 0.35m velcro to hold the bag closed when rolling. If you are using a stiffener, stitch downwards to make a pocket to keep the it in place. Do not insert the stiffener yet.

13. Cut 2 pieces of 25mm webbing 150mm long for the top straps. Thread thought the non-adjustable half of the 25mm side lock buckles (the bit with 1 hole for the webbing), and sew as you did for the roll top pockets. Sew on to bag level with the top edge. To find the correct position, fold the bag flat as shown.The top of the bag should now look like this there should be approx. 30mm between the bag and the buckles:

14. Pin and sew in the base - right sides together, straight edge to the back, and lined up with the back (not easy). Be careful not to catch the dangling velcro-ed webbing straps in the seam - it helps to tuck them up the back out of the way. Seal the seams with liquid seam sealant.

15. Once the seal sealant has dried, turn the bag right side out, thread adjustable side release buckles onto webbing straps and insert stiffeners and frame. You need to post the D-rings sewn onto the frame through the cut outs at the top corners. The lower 50mm webbing straps will secure the frame in place. Close by folding and rolling - the lower side release buckles can be adjusted to compensate for different loads. The bag can also be used open like a basket, but make sure your load dosn't foul the brake levers! The shoulder strap clips onto the D-rings on the frame, and can be removed when riding, or tucked over the front of the bag out of harm's way. Now sit back and feel smug that you have made your own bag, and send me a picture for the gallery.

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